Guides and notes from the road
Travel guides to Iceland and the North, and dated notes on what changed on the roads, the ferries and the prices.
Showing “iceland” · all posts
1 Nov 2026 · 6 min readA rainy day in Reykjavík: three indoor routes, metres in the rainVolcano Express, the National Museum, a hot pool and the Grandi shows, chained into three indoor routes with the outdoor metres per leg computed on 1 November 2026.
1 Nov 2026 · 5 min readAn electric car on the 7-day Ring Road: which days fit a 350 km rangeThe 7-day ledger re-run for 350 and 400 km of real range with a 20 per cent reserve: six days fit on a night's charge, Day 6 needs a stop; winter cuts up to 35 per cent.
1 Nov 2026 · 3 min readBaldur in dry dock: the Westfjords loop until late NovemberFerjuleiðir has Baldur in dry dock in Hafnarfjörður until late November 2026. Day 1 of the Westfjords ledger becomes 389 km by road; Flatey is a passenger boat.
1 Nov 2026 · 5 min readBest hot springs and lagoons in Iceland, priced against a city poolTwelve places to soak, from a 1,500 ISK Reykjavík pool to Blue Lagoon packages, each as a multiple of the pool price, with hours and minutes from a ledger night.
1 Nov 2026 · 5 min readBest time to visit Iceland: a monthly scorecard with the numbersTwelve months scored on daylight, warmth, rain, sunshine, aurora dark hours, highland roads, puffins, whales and the ferry, computed or read 1 November 2026.
1 Nov 2026 · 5 min readBest waterfalls in Iceland, and what each one costs in minutesEleven waterfalls with the walk from the car park, the fee, the ledger day that passes them, and out-and-back minutes from the nearest ledger bed, computed 1 Nov 2026.
1 Nov 2026 · 5 min readBlue Lagoon, Sky Lagoon, Hvammsvík: the detour on each ledgerNone of the three showed an adult price in its page text on 1 November 2026. The detours from Keflavík and Reykjavík are computed for the 7-, 10- and 5-day ledgers.
1 Nov 2026 · 4 min readCampervan or car plus guesthouse: the break-even bed price for twoAt the from-rates read on 1 November 2026 the car wins only if a guesthouse night for two is under about 7,650 ISK; at the stated summer rates the line is about 11,500.
1 Nov 2026 · 5 min readCamping in Iceland: 24 dated prices, the rule, and a week for twoAdult per night from 1,300 ISK (Grundarfjörður) to 3,500 (Hellishólar), read on each site's page on 1 November 2026. Six Ring Road nights for two: about 29,500 ISK.
1 Nov 2026 · 5 min readChristmas and New Year in Iceland: what is open, day by day23 December to 1 January 2027 in one grid: pool hours, lagoon and Volcano Express closures, sunrise, sunset and the Christmas Eve full moon, as of 1 Nov 2026.
1 Nov 2026 · 5 min readCopenhagen on a stopover: what to do, in minutes from the metroThe airport metro is 12–15 minutes and 30 kr to Kongens Nytorv; from there Nyhavn is 6 minutes on foot and Tivoli 19. Ten sights timed, with what each costs.
1 Nov 2026 · 4 min readDaylight on the 15th: the month the Ring Road stops being saneReykjavík daylight on the 15th of each month of 2027, computed with the NOAA formula, against the 330 km day the Ring Road ledger needs. The line falls in November.
1 Nov 2026 · 5 min readDaylight scorecard 2027 for four Iceland townsDaylight on the 1st and 15th of each month of 2027 for Reykjavík, Akureyri, Egilsstaðir and Ísafjörður, computed with NOAA's equations, and the months each ledger fits.
1 Nov 2026 · 5 min readEvery toll and site fee on Iceland's roads in one dated tableVaðlaheiði 2,216 ISK, Hornafjörður 1,500, Hvalfjörður free, car parks 1,000–1,500, Þingvellir 1,000, Kerið 700 a head, Stokksnes 1,100 or 1,200. Read on 1 November 2026.
1 Nov 2026 · 5 min readF-roads 2021–2025: share of years open by 15 June, 1 July and 15 JulyVegagerðin's table as one number per road: Kjölur open by 15 June in 5 of 5 years, Landmannalaugar from Sigalda in 4 of 5, Sprengisandur in 0 of 5 and 1 of 5 by 1 July.
1 Nov 2026 · 4 min readFaroe tunnel tolls in one table, and how to pay themTunnil's prices read 1 November 2026: 175 kr for the Eysturoy and Sandoy tunnels, 50 kr for Vágar and Norðoyar, charged one way. Six days to pay online, not three.
1 Nov 2026 · 5 min readFines on Iceland's roads: the tariff, and where each one bites100 on a 90 road is 20,000 ISK, 110 is 50,000, 130 is 120,000 and 141 brings a one-month ban. Phone in hand 40,000, no belt 20,000. Regulation 1240/2019, read 1 Nov 2026.
1 Nov 2026 · 4 min readFly or drive to Akureyri: the break-even fare for two and for fourDriving 387 km costs 15,657 ISK one way in fuel and a hire day at 1 November 2026 prices; flying wins below 7,828 ISK a head for two, 3,914 for four. Fares unreachable.
1 Nov 2026 · 3 min readFuel at 284 ISK: what a tank costs on each Iceland ledgerbensinverd.is on 1 November 2026: 95-octane most often 284.20 ISK a litre in the capital area, range 255.20 to 289.40. Litres and krónur for all seven Iceland ledgers.
1 Nov 2026 · 5 min readGolden Circle guide: the loop, the stops and what each add-on costsÞingvellir, Geysir, Gullfoss and Kerið in one 241.6 km day, plus five add-ons, each priced in km, minutes and krónur on 1 November 2026.
1 Nov 2026 · 4 min readGreenland from Iceland in 2027: what is on sale and what is only filedAir Greenland's map shows Keflavík–Nuuk on Tuesdays to 20 December 2026 and nothing for 2027; Icelandair's 2027 flights exist only as filings. What the ledger assumes.
1 Nov 2026 · 5 min readGreenland: what you can actually do, month by monthNo roads between towns, so every activity starts at a harbour, a runway or the 25 km ice-sheet track. Operator months and prices read 1 November 2026, with the light.
1 Nov 2026 · 5 min readIce caves 2026–27, cave by cave: price, departure, season, minutesKatla from Vík, Vatnajökull from Jökulsárlón, Langjökull from Húsafell and Perlan's 100 m indoor cave, as the operators' pages stated them on 1 November 2026.
1 Nov 2026 · 6 min readIce caves and glaciers in Iceland: which tour, which month, what lightKatla, Vatnajökull and Langjökull caves, glacier walks and snowmobiles priced on 1 November 2026, with a grid of which Katla departures come back before sunset, Nov–Mar.
1 Nov 2026 · 5 min readIceland in summer: the windows that open, and the light that staysPuffins, highland roads, boats, caves and late lagoons, each with the dates its operator or agency prints, plus midnight-sun daylight and summer temperatures, computed.
1 Nov 2026 · 6 min readIceland in winter: what is open, what closes, how much lightNovember 2026 to March 2027 in dated switches: boats, caves, ferries, tyres and holidays, read on operators' and agencies' pages on 1 Nov 2026, daylight computed.
1 Nov 2026 · 6 min readIceland on a budget: the cheap version of every theme, pricedPool or lagoon, bus or taxi, campsite or hotel, self-drive or tour: the cheap and the dear way to do each thing in Iceland, priced on 1 November 2026.
1 Nov 2026 · 6 min readIceland with kids: ages, heights and what a family of four paysPools, Volcano Express (from age 4), the zoo, lagoons, boats and caves, with every minimum age and the price for two adults and children of 7 and 10, read 1 Nov 2026.
1 Nov 2026 · 5 min readIceland's four ferries: fares, crossings and the ledger each touchesHerjólfur, Baldur, Sæfari and Sævar on 1 November 2026: 2,700 ISK to Vestmannaeyjar, 6,300 across Breiðafjörður, two fare pages that are widgets, and where each fits.
1 Nov 2026 · 4 min readJökulsárlón: the minimum stop, the fee and the boat prices, dated1,110 ISK to park, 7,100 ISK for the amphibian boat, 2 h 10 min from Vík and 44 min from Höfn (Vegagerðin), and a minimum stop built from the park's own walk times.
1 Nov 2026 · 5 min readKeflavík to the first bed: the honest sleep town by landing hourFirst-day sums for the 7- and 5-day ledgers by landing hour: 90 minutes to the wheel, ledger minutes, and sunset at Vík computed for 15 June, September and December.
1 Nov 2026 · 5 min readKiruna to Abisko: train or car, in the dark months94 km on the E10 or 1 h 45 by train. Abisko has no sunrise from 6 December to 6 January and 2 h 52 of sun on 15 January, computed; blasting shuts both 05:30–07:30.
1 Nov 2026 · 5 min readLapland in winter: what to do in Rovaniemi, Jukkasjärvi and AbiskoHusky rides, the Icehotel, the Aurora Sky Station and the Arctic Circle line, with the drives between three bases and their computed sun, December to March.
1 Nov 2026 · 5 min readLaugavegur and Fimmvörðuháls: days, huts and buses, priced for 2027FÍ's 55 km Laugavegur and 25 km Fimmvörðuháls recomputed at 4 km/h plus a climb allowance, with the 2027 hut price list, Trex's 2027 fares and the F-road record.
1 Nov 2026 · 5 min readLofoten in winter: the E10, the Bodø ferry and three hours of lightReine has 3 h 15 min of sun on 15 January 2027, computed, and none from 10 December to 2 January. The Bodø ferry's winter sailings, and a February week against Iceland.
1 Nov 2026 · 3 min readNorröna 2027: the sailing days that fix a Faroes–Iceland tripSmyril Line's 2027 timetable: Seyðisfjörður served 31 March to 18 November, Thursday arrivals in summer, Wednesday either side. The days that fix the 12-day ledger.
1 Nov 2026 · 6 min readNorthern lights in Iceland: the moonless weeks of winter 2026–27When to go, where to stand and what a tour costs, with every new and full moon from November 2026 to April 2027 and the hours of true darkness in Reykjavík, computed.
1 Nov 2026 · 4 min readNorway's fjord ferries and AutoPASS with a hire carThe fjords ledger's four crossings as published on 1 November 2026: 69, 81, 116 and 116 kr per car, passengers free. Why the 50 % AutoPASS discount is not for a hire car.
1 Nov 2026 · 5 min readNorway's fjords: what to do, and which day of the week it fitsThe Geirangerfjord boat, the Flåm Railway, Trollstigen and Preikestolen: operator prices and seasons read 1 November 2026, and the drive from each ledger night.
1 Nov 2026 · 4 min readPuffin weeks at four colonies, against the ledger datesHafnarhólmi's page gives mid-April to mid-August; for Dyrhólaey and Látrabjarg the agency gives restriction windows, not bird dates. The ledger days that fall inside.
1 Nov 2026 · 4 min readRental excesses, gravel and ash cover, and 6.95 ISK a kilometreSCDW, gravel and ash cover from two rental sites read 1 November 2026, the excess each leaves, the per-km road charge, and 21 to 27 ISK of insurance per ledger km.
1 Nov 2026 · 4 min readRoute 1's mountain passes: heights, closures and the ledger daysFjarðarheiði 620 m, Öxnadalsheiði 540, Holtavörðuheiði 407, Hellisheiði 374 on Vegagerðin's list. Dated notices: the south closes for wind, the north and east for snow.
1 Nov 2026 · 4 min readRovaniemi or Tromsø for the lights: dark hours and cloud, scoredDark hours, sun below −6°, computed for the 15th of each month at Rovaniemi, Tromsø and Reykjavík, with what the met offices publish on cloud. A score with its blanks.
1 Nov 2026 · 5 min readSeven Ring Road hot springs by the hour and by the detourEarth Lagoon, Vök, Forest Lagoon, GeoSea, Krauma, Secret Lagoon, Hvammsvík: adult prices read 1 November 2026, the detour from Route 1, and the ledger day each fits.
1 Nov 2026 · 5 min readSnæfellsnes: day trip or overnight, in hours behind the wheelThe loop from Reykjavík is 444 km, all paved, 5 h 33 min at 80 km/h: two hours of driving per hour out of the car. A night in Stykkishólmur brings the ratio to 1.1.
1 Nov 2026 · 6 min readSouth Coast guide: every stop in minutes from Vík and from ReykjavíkSeljalandsfoss to Jökulsárlón: ten stops with road distance from Vík and from Reykjavík, fees read 1 November 2026, and the ledger days that string them together.
1 Nov 2026 · 4 min readStudded tyres from 1 November: what a winter hire actually meansStuds are permitted from 1 November to 14 April, and from the same day every passenger car needs 3.0 mm of tread. Neither rule says a hire car must have studs.
1 Nov 2026 · 5 min readThe best month for the lights, with the formulaDark hours (sun below −6°, computed) times the clear-sky fraction from Veðurstofa's 1991–2020 cloud record, for Reykjavík and Akureyri. December wins; it ignores the sun.
1 Nov 2026 · 4 min readThe Golden Circle fact sheet: leg by leg, in km, minutes and krónurReykjavík to Þingvellir, Geysir, Gullfoss, Kerið and back: 241.6 km, 180 minutes at legal speed in summer, 245 in winter, 9,882 ISK for two at 1 November 2026 prices.
1 Nov 2026 · 5 min readThe grocery basket index: 25 items priced on kronan.is todayTwenty-five own-label staples on Krónan's price pages, 1 November 2026: 16,596 ISK, index 100. Nettó prints no browsable prices, Bónus none; the sleep towns shop by shop.
1 Nov 2026 · 5 min readThe longest leg in every ledger against daylight, month by monthEach ledger's longest day against computed daylight at its midpoint on the 15th of each month, one hour's margin. Three fail only in December; four more fail January.
1 Nov 2026 · 4 min readThe longest stretch without fuel on each Iceland ledgerFrom the ledger legs and the one station list readable on 1 November 2026 (olis.is; n1.is and orkan.is were not): 365 km between confirmed pumps on the 7-day loop.
1 Nov 2026 · 5 min readThe seven-day ledger, costed per dayDay by day: kilometres, minutes, litres at 284.20 ISK, fees with a published price, bands for the rest. Fuel 33,145 ISK and fees 11,237 for the week; Day 6 is longest.
1 Nov 2026 · 7 min readThings to do in Iceland, by theme and by distance from your bedVolcanoes, ice, lagoons, whales, waterfalls, the lights and the city: 30 things to do, each with the nearest ledger night and minutes to it, prices read 1 Nov 2026.
1 Nov 2026 · 6 min readThings to do in Reykjavík, measured in minutes on foot from HarpaFifteen things to do in Reykjavík with the walk from Harpa's door in metres and minutes, the adult price and the hours, all read or computed on 1 November 2026.
1 Nov 2026 · 5 min readThings to do in the Faroe Islands, in minutes from TórshavnMykines, Vestmanna, Gásadalur, Saksun, Gjógv, Trælanípa and Kallur, each with the drive from Tórshavn, the tunnel toll and the walking fee, dated 1 November 2026.
1 Nov 2026 · 5 min readThings to do in Tromsø in winter, timed against the lightDog sleds, the aurora bus, Fjellheisen, Polaria and the Arctic Cathedral, set against Tromsø's computed light on 15 January 2027: 38 minutes of sun, 5 h 52 of twilight.
1 Nov 2026 · 7 min readVolcano experiences in Iceland: six ways in, and the eruption sitesVolcano Express, Lava Show, Perlan, FlyOver, Raufarhólshellir and Þríhnúkagígur: prices, hours, Harpa-to-Harpa minutes, and Reykjanes access on 1 November 2026.
1 Nov 2026 · 4 min readWestfjords loop: paved against gravel, leg by legVegagerðin's distance tool splits each road into paved and gravel. Over the six-day ledger: 99 km of gravel in 1,012, mostly the Látrabjarg road, and a 204 km fuel gap.
1 Nov 2026 · 4 min readWhale-sighting rates by port: what the operators publishNorth Sailing logged whales on 95.76% of 1,108 Húsavík sailings in 2025; Elding reports 91% from Reykjavík in 2024. Nobody publishes a monthly table.
1 Nov 2026 · 6 min readWhales and puffins in Iceland: a month-by-month operator gridWhere and when to see whales and puffins: seasons, prices and sighting rates read on operator and agency pages on 1 November 2026, and the ledger day each fits.
1 Nov 2026 · 4 min readWhat a day in Iceland costs, line by line, from dated public pricesFuel, a pool, a museum, a supermarket lunch, parking and a bed for two in Reykjavík, 1 November 2026: 13,993 ISK before the bed, 21,098 with the only published bed price.
1 Nov 2026 · 4 min readWhat the new Hornafjörður toll does to the Ring Road weekFrom 1 September 2026 the 19 km Hornafjörður section is tolled by camera at 1,500 ISK a trip. For the seven-day loop that is one certain crossing and one probable one.
1 Nov 2026 · 5 min readWhat the Ring Road costs per vehicle class: fuel, tolls and car parksThe seven-day ledger's 1,555 km at the 1 November 2026 pump price: 44,382 ISK in a small petrol car, 55,430 mid-size, 64,269 large, tolls and published parking included.
1 Nov 2026 · 5 min readWhere to sleep on the Ring Road: towns with fuel and a supermarketSeventeen stops on Route 1 spaced by Vegagerðin's distances and checked against the fuel and supermarket chains' lists on 1 November 2026. Longest store gap: 260 km.
1 Nov 2026 · 4 min readWhy every figure here has a dateNumbers decay: a toll appears, a ferry goes into dock, a pump price differs by 34 ISK between stations on one afternoon. The method: ledgers, verification dates, bands.
1 Nov 2026 · 6 min readYour first day in Reykjavík after the flight: what is still openLand at Keflavík, reach Harpa about 2 h 20 min later, and see what is open: a landing-hour grid with pools, Volcano Express, Perlan and museums, and computed sunsets.
1 Nov 2026 · 5 min readYour own car from Denmark to Iceland: the 2027 sumsSmyril Line's 2027 car-and-two fare could not be read on 1 November 2026. Fuel per leg from dated Danish, Faroese and Icelandic prices, tolls, and the four extra days.