Dynjandi

Dynjandi is the stop that splits the Westfjords drive between the southern fjords and Ísafjörður, and it is on the way rather than off it: route 60 drops into Arnarfjörður right beside the falls, and the car park is 700 m down a spur. On a Patreksfjörður-to-Ísafjörður day it is the natural middle, about an hour and a half from each.

The practical line, from the Environment Agency's access page read today: the site is reached "by road 60 (Vestfjarðavegur)" and "road 621 (Dynjandavegur) runs about 700 meters to the parking lot"; "there are water toilets that are open year round"; "Overnight stays are not permitted"; and a service fee is charged "by the parking lot, in accordance with a fee schedule", with the amount on the sign rather than on the page, so the band is left as "check". No fuel, no shop: Flókalundur to the south and Þingeyri to the north are the nearest fuel points, and neither could be confirmed on a station map today, so arrive with half a tank.

How long: "the walk takes about 15 minutes" from the car park up the series of lower falls to the base of the main one, and the same back, with time at the top. The path "is rocky and uneven in places" and the spray makes it slippery; it is not pushchair ground.

Timing on the road: the Dýrafjörður tunnel has removed the Hrafnseyrarheiði pass from the Ísafjörður side, but the Dynjandisheiði section south of the falls is still high and gravel in parts, closed in winter storms; check umferdin.is. Quiet outside the mid-afternoon wave of cars crossing the fjords.